“The sea is emotion incarnate. It loves, hates, and weeps. It defies all attempts to capture it with words and rejects all shackles. No matter what you say about it, there is always that which you can't.”
― Christopher Paolini
I find that every ocean encounter—brief, long, lovely, or frustrating—continues to defy the logic and words I so desperately want to wrap around it. Perhaps the mysteriousness of it is what keeps me coming back for more. This time around, that quest led me to Tonga to swim with humpback whales. Whales Underwater, once again, put together an unforgettable trip for my twin sister and I. I can’t thank them enough for their dedicated work and passion.
The sheer breadth of encounters and experiences we had could probably fill a book. I’ll try my best to keep it brief.
The initial draw of Tonga is probably the mom and calf pairs. The encounters we had with each pair was as different as fingerprints. Some mothers were cautious, others aloof, and still others so at ease with humans they’d nap while we looked on. Like us, the calves had their own personalities—some brave and cheeky, others stand-offish, and some just plain curious. Their attachment to their mothers was obvious and endearing. The way the calves always wanted to keep physical contact with their moms was so lovely. Although when they would rub their bellies on their mothers’ faces you could almost see that mom eye-roll in response. Being a mom myself, I couldn’t help but empathize… there’s so much touching in motherhood! But as much as we want our space sometimes, the time they need our touch is so very brief.
Then we got to experience a heat run! For those that don’t know what a heat run is, it’s where a female in heat is pursued by a group of males hoping to mate with her. She sends them on a merry chase for 24-48 hours before choosing one. I was so hoping we’d be able to see one. And yet, it still surprised me. It was not at all what I expected. A photographic challenge for sure (all those distracting blue fish!) but it was also the most spectacular nature event I’ve ever witnessed, to date. These titans swimming fast, whacking each other with tails, plowing into each other and releasing a myriad of bubbles was adrenaline inducing for sure, but also incredibly mesmerizing. Most of the time all I could think of was “you go, girl! You put those guys through hell.” Perhaps not the lasting thought I should have walked away with! ;)
For me, the most surprising of our encounters were the number of “couples” resting together. The males always following the lead of the females and much more watchful and aware of us, as if they were the bodyguards. These were our longest encounters. We’d drop in and observe them resting and sometimes talking to each other. This “pillow talk” (as Jasmine refers to it) seemed so intimate I would get a little self-conscious observing them. They’d rest for about 20 minutes and come up together for a breath, giving us a curious glance or two before descending to rest some more.
Have you ever heard a humpback laugh? Have you ever had the privilege of laughing along with one? Meet “Mikey.” Mikey provided us with one of the most unique wildlife encounters I’ve ever had. One that’s left a mark both figuratively and literally. Let me explain—it’s quite the tail (pun intended)! Mikey is a juvenile, probably around 5 years old. This was likely his first solo trip to Tonga. Freshly arrived with barnacles on his chin, he was resting on the bottom. For the boat of observers that was there before we arrived, he didn’t seem to want to wake up. But then he saw us. I watched as he opened his eyes and noticed us. He made a beeline straight for us, sizing us up. Apparently he thought we were down for some fun so he started twisting, turning, grunting and splashing us with his tail. I let out a genuine belly laugh. This whale’s joy and playfulness was contagious. He returned the sentiment, grunting louder and passing by us closer and closer with every turn. I could reach out and touch him (I didn’t, of course! Please don’t touch wildlife.).
Then that last fateful pass…
We were all lined up and he was eager to splash us with his tail again but he misjudged just how close he was, and I did too. I was on the end of our viewing line and turned just as he brought his fluke down and it landed on my back, knocking the wind out of me and rendering me immobile for a minute or so. After that, he took off like he thought he was in big trouble and I floated in the water while I waited for my breath and voice to return. I found out when I got home that I had a broken rib and a badly bruised hip bone. At the time I figured the pain was immense but not unbearable so I kept getting back in the water and I don’t regret it. It definitely slowed me down but didn’t stop me. After our fateful contact, I was a bit too cautious around the whales (can you blame me?) and wasn’t doing too much freediving. Luckily our local guides were amazing and had my back—pushing me closer so I could get a good shot when I was being too cautious and pulling me back when they weren’t sure what the whales were going to do. Wildlife can be unpredictable. But they are just as unpredictable to us as we are to them. The ocean is their world, we are just visitors. I’m so glad so many of them allowed us in their presence. I am forever grateful. And to the mischievous Mikey: I will NEVER forget you, my dear. I send you all my love, think about you daily (especially on days I still get twinges of pain), and pray you will live a long life free of ship strikes and entanglement. It never escapes my mind that this giant could have killed me but that we humans are much more likely to cause his end. If you want to know a bit more about what it’s like to get hit by a whale, I recommend watching PBS’s “Whale Detective.”
After our encounter with Mikey we came across a singer. For those that believe we are the only ones to benefit from gene-culture coevolution have never heard a humpback sing—never felt the song vibrating in their bones. Never shed a tear at it’s mournful tones or laughed at it’s high pitched squeaks. So many theories surround humpback songs. I like to believe it’s their ever-evolving culture—the way they bond as we do over the art we create—the songs, the books, the plays, the movies, the paintings, the photographs, the poetry, the food—the things that bring us together and also showcase our individual uniqueness.
I’m reminded of a song lyric from an, admittedly melodramatic song, but one I still love, nonetheless: “How rare and beautiful it truly is, that we exist.” Life goes in cycles. It comes and goes. All the factors that have to fall in place for us to exist are incredible. Life is a gift—one that isn’t given to everyone. Cherish yours and cherish others for we can not exist without the lives of others. Our lives are intrinsically tied to every other life on this planet.
Swimming with whales always seems to lead me back to the WHY of everything. What’s the meaning of life? Why are we here? We will inevitably be chasing the answer to that question forever. I envy people with faith. For some they have the confidence to let God handle that question and lead them to the answer. Me, on the other hand, watch our world in absolute amazement and all I can manage to do is have faith that I’ll be always chasing that answer. We, as a species, will always be chasing it. Because what if we found it? Then what? It’s the driving question to our evolution. It’s how we carry on. With each new thing we learn, with each new misstep, with everything we get wrong, we move forward. For me that way forward lies in chasing some small understanding of the world we live in and striking a balance with it. Our salvation, our continued existence and evolution depend on finding that balance. So seek out new things. Connect with strange beings. Float weightless in the abyss, walk among giants, or soar high above the ground. Find connection. Find balance. Fall in love with the world over and over again. Now more than ever. Try. Fail. Get back up. Make it count. The rest of us are right there with you.